Zuhair Murad’s Haute Couture: Elegance in the Midnight Hour

Zuhair Murad’s Fall-Winter 2019 Haute Couture collection drew inspiration from a recent trip to Morocco, where he immersed himself in the rich cultural elements of the region. This led to a lavish array of garments crafted from opulent materials, adorned with intricate beadwork inspired by traditional tribal tattoos and draped in warm desert tones of gold, brick, orange, amber, amaranth, and green. The collection featured floor-sweeping skirts, capes, and sleeves that added a touch of glamour and theatricality to the overall look.

Another original facet of the collection was the infusion of a 1970s Saint Laurent influence, incorporating ostrich feathers and headbands for a touch of retro elegance. The addition of Indian elements, like the Paisley motif, enhanced the bohemian chic aesthetic. Furthermore, the feather-trimmed outfits exuded an aura of old Hollywood glamour.

Defying his natural inclination for crafting collections that brim with vibrant and saturated colors, Zuhair Murad embarked on an uncharted creative journey by embracing the timeless elegance of black. This marked a significant departure for the designer as he sought to transform this self-imposed constraint into a new avenue, unlocking the limitless possibilities of the nocturnal world.

The night serves as a realm of enigma, where hidden lives and unseen wonders are unveiled by the soft touch of light, akin to shimmering stars suspended between the realms of dreams and reality. It evokes memories of sumptuous gatherings, where elegance reminiscent of ancient sabbaths reigns supreme, and freedom knows no bounds.

Intricate embroidery adorns the taut velvet jacket, featuring glistening silver moths in shades of purple, with a geometric collar as vibrant as the enchanting night. The delicate lace at the sleeves’ hem seamlessly blends with the supple texture of the long skirt, high-slit and cascading like a waterfall at twilight.

A beautiful arrangement of finely crafted silver and black patterns, designed asymmetrically, conjures the enchantment of raven feathers. They elegantly drape over the dresses, imparting a feeling of subtle, graceful movement in their hidden brilliance and captivating touch.

The bat, revered as the nocturnal monarch, serves as the muse, inspiring the collar’s precise lines that mirror the distinctive arc of its wings. This results in a delicate interplay of shadows cast in varying dimensions upon a cascade of tulle.

In the moonlight, organza blooms with an enchanting display of roses, which gather in surreal and intoxicating arrangements. Their opulent beauty exudes a mysterious charm, painted in deep shades of rich red, soft lilac, and muted mauve.

A regal black rose takes a prominent position, rising at the intersection of a velvet bodice and a sumptuous skirt embellished with a rose motif in a textured jacquard weave. As the dark hour unfolds, the elements of nature come to life, offering a mix of both unsettling and familiar aspects, their character shifting with the interplay of light and shadow.

This collection envelops itself in an atmosphere of medieval grandeur, fusing elements of gothic fantasy with a contemporary touch. The enchantment of deep black pervades every garment, embodying the very essence of allure, continuously captivating with its subtle radiance.

NEW YORK MANHATTAN FASHION MAGAZINE