The designer’s prior collections have celebrated various prominent women from the 19th and 20th centuries, encompassing aristocrats, photographers, and other influential cultural figures. Now, it’s Debo’s moment to shine on the runway, a tribute she would undoubtedly have relished.
The late duchess had a deep appreciation for fashion, favoring Lanvin, Balmain, and Dior, and held a fondness for her chickens and, of course, Elvis. These elements were all incorporated into Erdem’s spring show, which once again graced the grand portico of the British Museum.
The collection also paid homage to the essence of Deborah’s former residence, Chatsworth, one of England’s renowned estates. To meet financial demands, the resourceful, thrifty, and diligent Deborah played a crucial role in transforming Chatsworth into a commercial endeavor. She opened it to the public, initiated a farm shop, and organized various events.
Moralioglu collaborated with the archive teams at Chatsworth and collaborated with family members to procure fabrics and images for this collection. Notably, he enlisted the talents of Deborah’s great-granddaughter, Cecily Lasnet, daughter of the late Stella Tennant, to contribute to the embroidery work.
The collection featured full-skirted gowns and prom dresses reminiscent of the 1950s. These dresses were crafted from tulle and floral fabrics, evoking the impression that they had been assembled from curtain materials.
Dramatic cape coats with a patchwork design, utilizing fabric sourced from Chatsworth, possessed a relaxed elegance, akin to dressing gowns. Meanwhile, heirloom jewelry and dragonfly brooches adorned the bodices of both strappy gowns and spacious slipdresses, adding a touch of sparkle and sophistication.
Moralioglu infused a modern touch into many of these garments, such as transforming a sleek, negligee-style dress into a vibrant highlighter green hue. His oversized Elvis jackets, adorned with studs, came in striking petrol blue or emerald shades.
Amidst all the dazzling bejeweled dresses, feathery coats, and velvet rose devoré, practical-minded consumers might opt for the understated elegance of slim, lightweight dresses and precisely tailored attire, bypassing the flashier options.
ERDEM official channel