Maria Grazia Chiuri finds Mexico to be a constellation of places that ignite deep emotions. Like surrealist artists Leonora Carrington, Remedios Varo, and Tina Modotti, who found solace and inspiration in this soul-stirring land, Chiuri discovers a profound connection. Exploring the essence of Mexico, she draws inspiration from its rich artistic heritage, particularly the works of Frida Kahlo and the captivating landscapes captured by Tina Modotti through her lens.
Dior’s cruise 2024 collection pays homage to Frida Kahlo, a towering figure in Mexican culture. Kahlo’s transformative journey, expressed through her iconic clothing, becomes a central theme. Her garments transcended mere fashion; they became declarations, protests, and affirmations. Like a precious case protecting a wounded body, her attire cocooned a butterfly, symbolizing metamorphosis. This motif unfolds through an array of prints, featuring elongated squares inspired by Andrée Brossin de Méré’s sketch from the Dior archives. Additionally, delicate moths, capturing the essence of Kahlo’s spirit, gracefully adorn the collection.
The exploration of Frida Kahlo’s indomitable spirit led Maria Grazia Chiuri to delve into photographs that challenged conventional gender boundaries. At just nineteen, Frida boldly donned men’s three-piece suits, asserting her independence and intellectual prowess. Reflecting this audacity, the collection pays tribute to her iconic style while also embracing the Tehuana tradition, juxtaposing full skirts with traditional tunics known as huipils. Collaborating closely with skilled local artisans renowned for their craftsmanship, Chiuri incorporates their expertise into the collection, with exquisite embroideries and co-created designs gracing dresses and shirts.
One highlight is a resplendent pink dress reminiscent of Frida Kahlo’s self-portraits. Its fragile beauty is enhanced by a meticulous selection of cotton, hemp, and silk lace, intricately designed collars accentuating the jersey and black velvet fabrics, and butterfly-inspired jacquards. Velvet takes on a captivating range of colors, gracefully flowing in pleated skirts that accentuate the hips and unfurl like corollas. The collection also showcases the signature toile de Jouy, where butterflies intermingle with vibrant depictions of Mexican flora and fauna, echoing the subjects that illuminated Kahlo’s evocative paintings.
Adding a personal touch to the presentation, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose the esteemed Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso as the show’s venue—a symbolic location where Frida Kahlo herself once studied and encountered her lifelong love and mentor, Diego Rivera. Within this historical setting, Mexican feminist artist Elina Chauvet will captivate the audience with a captivating performance. Mexico, a country that resonates deeply within Chiuri’s heart, comes alive through the collection’s emotional depth and chromatic vivacity, embodying a feminine spirit intricately entwined with nature—an exquisite balance of commitment and whimsy.
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