Jason Wu Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear NYFW
from Vogue.com
NEW YORK, FEBRUARY 12, 2016
by NICOLE PHELPS
Before his show today, Jason Wu shied away from discussing specific inspirations. “I was really thinking about an idea of a wardrobe,” he said, “the way our customer wears our clothes, what I think luxury should be.”
As discreet as that sounds, Wu did a fair bit of upending expectations in his new Fall collection. It started right with the first look, a checked suit the skirt of which grazed the bare mid-thighs above velvet court-shoe stilettos. (Prepare to see a lot of high heels this season.) Feathers for day were another surprise. Back when he was known for frothy party dresses, Wu lived for a plume. After seasons of not touching them, they came breezing into the picture here on a narrow skirt, a gray flannel dress, even on oversized, rather mannish topcoats. Also unexpected: the collection’s many strappy backless pieces. Wu relied a bit too much on this silhouette; it’s hard to imagine even a devoted customer needing more than one exposed-back ribbed knit dress, short-sleeved jacket, or tunic in her closet, but their flirtatious spirit was appealing.
Wu’s experiments produced one of his more diverse lineups. Minis mixed with midis. Windowpane plaids shared the runway with a floral jacquard and a lush rose and poppy print. Athletically minded ribbed knit dresses got some play, but so did delicate lace slip dresses. There was a single standout brown leather coat accessorized with one of the many detachable fur collars that came down the runway. As a collection, its lack of cohesion worked against it, but individually there were sellable ideas.
