Dior Homme Spring 2016


Kris Van Assche’s new Dior Homme collection wanted to bring a not immediately appealing character—an haute bourgeoisie Frenchman—to the street and leave him there, to let his hidebound conventions of dress slowly dissolve into a hybrid of sartoria and sportswear.

That felt like an idea that might have appeared in a movie at some point. It was certainly visual enough. But when the first outfit to appear featured a three-piece flannel suit, a button-down shirt in a businessman blue, andtrainers for louche effect, there was a moment when one worried that Van Assche was not going to pursue his concept to its logical, and quite possibly appealing, extreme. Trainers with a three-piece doesn’t exactly constitute “the playful subversion of the rules of masculine dress” promised by the designer’s show notes.

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Manhattan Fashion Magazine New York