Ulla Johnson’s Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collection is a masterclass in warmth, beauty, and effortless sophistication. Presented against a striking installation by Andrew Ondrejcak and Abby Cheney, designed to evoke a “warm, enveloping, embryonic feeling,” the collection captured this essence through garments that balance relaxed, slouchy silhouettes with body-accentuating designs. By incorporating both feminine and masculine elements, Johnson subtly redefines traditional ideas of gendered fashion.
For the first time, Johnson’s runway featured a coed presentation, blending womenswear and menswear to challenge conventional categories. This wasn’t just an aesthetic choice; it emphasized individual freedom in style and questioned why such artificial boundaries exist in fashion. “It was more about exploring why there is this artificial boundary,” Johnson explained, acknowledging her growing male audience.
Classic details like paisley, lace, and corsetry were given new life through Johnson’s signature artisanal approach. Hand-crocheted paisley dresses and black-and-white embellished skirts conveyed elegance, while slouchy tailoring and loose silhouettes ensured each piece embodied comfort. Standout shearling intarsia coats provided warmth, while the K-Way collaboration added functional, water-resistant elements to ikat prints.
Johnson’s affinity for bold color was on full display, with Milton Avery-inspired saturated hues adorning monochrome layers and knitwear. A vibrant purple felted wool dress opened the show, setting a playful yet sophisticated tone that continued with jersey dresses featuring “distorted” edges. The eveningwear pieces epitomized fluidity, with a show-stopping crushed gold metallic pleated gown shimmering down the runway as a highlight.
More than just a collection, Johnson’s latest work is a statement of her commitment to creating pieces that are as comfortable as they are beautiful, transcending traditional fashion boundaries and encouraging personal expression. This season’s designs affirm her dedication to an inclusive vision, where garments empower the wearer regardless of who they are.
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