After navigating through a crowd of enthusiastic fans, attendees at Elie Saab’s spring presentation were welcomed by a grand depiction of the moon, Earth’s pockmarked companion. Even before the show commenced, elegantly attired women—and a few men—strived to capture a lunar-inspired shot for their digital memories.
Behind the scenes, the designer himself lingered near a makeshift studio, giving his approval to a few last-minute photos. While his spring collection was titled “Moonlight Shadow” and drew inspiration from the women in his life, notably his wife, Claudine, Saab clarified that the celestial theme was largely symbolic. Rather than sticking exclusively to nighttime aesthetics, he was embracing the daytime. “We’ve achieved tremendous success with cotton dresses because of their glamorous and refreshing appeal suitable for both day and night wear,” he explained. He expressed his intention to infuse his couture sensibilities into daylight fashion, emphasizing the importance of maintaining a sense of lightness.
On the runway, the moon motif manifested itself through polka dots, a prominent spring trend, displayed in black on white cotton poplin or interwoven into white summer tweed patterns. It also appeared as petal-like designs on delicate macramé dresses, adorned with accent colors like sage green and dusty rose, accentuated with lace. The moon motif was incorporated into a constellation of metallic embellishments adorning little black minidresses and a meteor shower of strass on evening ensembles. The meticulous craftsmanship was particularly evident on two dresses—one long and the other short—where lunar topography seemed to be transcribed through yellow, pink, and bronze appliqués intricately embroidered on a sheer base.
Elsewhere in the collection, Saab opted for bold monochromatic statements, sending safari-inspired outfits down the runway in white or a vibrant “cosmopolitan pink,” along with a “coral spritz” dress made from embroidered tulle. Some looks seemed to offer his typically jewel-adorned clientele a two-for-one deal, featuring opulent gems cascading down the front of an otherwise pristine white cape dress. Another smart move was the restrained use of logos; Saab’s insignia appeared subtly in tonal variations on English lace or as sparkling brooches anchoring fluid, draped evening dresses. However, certain elements in the collection transcended brand specifics and had a universal appeal, such as a sunburst of gradient moons.
Regardless of whether it was intended for day or evening wear, Elie Saab’s collection provided a wealth of appealing options for a sophisticated customer base. Notably, Elie Saab’s son and CEO, Elie Jr., alluded to a significant forthcoming expansion alongside the recently launched boutique in Monte Carlo, teasing exciting developments on the horizon.
