Olivier Rousteing presented the Balmain Fall/Winter 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week. The show was held in a small, well-lit salon at Le Carreau du Temple. The collection was a tribute to Pierre Balmain, the founder of the House, and the French luxury style that defined the brand. Rousteing updated Balmain’s original dialect with 21st-century technology and contemporary craft.
The collection featured historical house cues, such as lavish suede suiting with oversized silver lapels, grandiose bow ties, textured corsets, statement hats, and metallic polka-dot prints. These elements reflected the transformational journey that outlines the Balmain mentality. The new-New Look shaped out of threaded neoprene was a great example of how Rousteing updated Balmain’s original dialect.
The range previewed dynamic black-and-white looks for the modern woman, utilizing contemporary materials with an opulent shine. Mohair ensembles followed in vibrant teal tones, while aviation-inspired checkered uniforms strolled next to lightweight summer dresses and structural silk evening wear that glistened under the spotlight with a royal identity.
Anatomical garments outlined human proportions with a pearl construction, while others bloomed into formation with sheer coatings that revealed delicate figures beneath. Sensual necklines were revealed through and through, honoring the beauty of the female form at every point. The collection was inspired by following the voice inside one’s heart and soul, as shown by the heavy emphasis on playing “My Way” during the show.
Backstage, Stephen Jones designed hats, a gorgeous shallow lampshade in moire mohair, and a ’70s beret in leather and other fabrications. Cute bow-fronted slippers and pumps were delivered, while some models toted purposefully anachronistic bags, piles of small luggage bundled together, and inexplicably, a toolbox. Capes, so old-school but so wonderfully dramatic, were a big feature.
The presentation was a departure from last season’s stadium-presented festival showcase, which included a star turn from Cher. Rousteing did Balmain his way and delivered a collection that followed the voice inside his heart and soul. Explosive bow dresses, sculpturally architectural corsets, and a luscious long coat made of rustling raspberry mesh followed. Rousteing did not rule out a return to the “va-va-voom” big format show in the future, but this season, he followed his heart and did Balmain his way.
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