Schiaparelli | Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 Show at International Haute Couture Fashion Week

This Paris fashion week Daniel Roseberry’s faux Schiaparelli wildlife designs got a lot of attention online. They included a “leopard” that seemed to have sprung out from Shalom Harlow’s chest, the “wolf” that peered out of Naomi Campbell’s jacket, the “lion” headpiece worn by Irina Shayk on the catwalk and Kylie Jenner at the front row. It was a near certainty that they’d immediately adopt a complex and controversial lifestyle all their own. Since Elsa’s time, the art of surprise has been ingrained in Schiaparelli’s DNA, except unlike Roseberry, she didn’t grow up during a period when people would interpret elaborate imaginations in a distressingly colonial manner, a time when environmental groups and animal activists despise certain designs for showcasing dead animals, despite the fact that it established that they were made of foam as well as faux fur. Producing a complete collection is another story. His response? To take on the task head-on creating masterpieces which challenged the atelier’s technological capabilities to their max. A bustier with a significantly horned bodice swayed with taupe glass stones, whereas a strappy gown glided with tin-covered sparkles. A fantastic collection was overshadowed by the controversy surrounding the animal depiction. Hopefully it won’t stifle Roseberry’s desire to experiment.

NEW YORK MANHATTAN FASHION MAGAZINE