Andreas Kronthaler has never been one for subtlety, and his Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for Vivienne Westwood was no exception. Presented in Paris, the show was an electrifying fusion of English eccentricity, deconstructed tailoring, and irreverent playfulness—codes that have long defined the house. Yet this season, amidst the signature chaos and wit, there was a noticeable shift: a nod to the past with a clear vision for the future.
One of the most telling details of the show was not a garment but a belt—a tricolor Italian strap embroidered with the initials “AK,” worn over an ivory silk jacket and white trousers. More than just an accessory, it seemed to hint at a new chapter for the brand. Plans are in motion for a return to Milan’s menswear calendar as early as June, marking a significant shift after nearly a decade since Westwood last presented a dedicated menswear show.
Menswear has always been a space for rebellion at Westwood, and this collection continued that tradition while reinterpreting classic tailoring. Traditional British suiting was both celebrated and deconstructed, with Harris Tweed pieces reshaped through asymmetric cuts. Knits featured unconventional pocket placements, blending humor with sensuality, while ultra-fitted moleskin trousers recalled the sharp silhouettes of past eras. Leash ties and effortlessly lifted skirts introduced an element of provocation, reinforcing the brand’s fearless approach to gender fluidity.
Beyond tailoring, the collection expanded into an array of dresses that balanced regal elegance with Westwood’s characteristic unruliness. A mini-crini silhouette, a twisted-strap brocade mini, and a billowing cowl gown with matching thigh-highs brought drama to the runway. Meanwhile, a selection of astrology-print ski wear introduced an unexpected and playful contrast, reinforcing the brand’s free-spirited nature.
One word captured the essence of the collection, emblazoned on a necklace: Chaos. Yet beneath the disorder, there was a distinct sense of direction. Kronthaler’s approach is both a reflection of Westwood’s rich legacy and a step toward new possibilities, embracing the past while redefining the future. With a return to Milan on the horizon, the next era of Westwood menswear is already taking shape.
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