Pieter Mulier’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for Alaïa reaffirmed his status as a defining voice in contemporary fashion. Presented during Paris Fashion Week, the collection reflected his continued innovation and distinct creative language—one that has propelled the brand’s visibility and commercial success.
Since taking the helm, Mulier has reshaped Alaïa’s identity by introducing a modern yet deeply respectful approach to craftsmanship. His commitment to challenging traditional construction methods—favoring single-thread garments and eliminating conventional closures—echoes the innovative spirit of the house’s founder, Azzedine Alaïa. This season marked a milestone as Alaïa debuted on the official ready-to-wear calendar, breaking from traditional seasonal classifications to present a collection that defied convention.
Mulier’s designs revolved around sculptural silhouettes, with “fabric donuts” serving as a striking motif, framing the body in unexpected ways. A diverse array of forms—tiered, tubular, and padded—offered a dramatic interplay of volume and structure. Oversized leather coats with exaggerated lapels added an air of theatricality, while wool coats with roped shoulders, cutaway bolero jackets, and shearling vests provided depth and dimension.
The show’s staging further emphasized the sculptural nature of the collection, featuring bronze busts by artist Mark Manders, seamlessly blending fashion with art. Mulier’s ability to merge historical and cultural references was evident in subtle nods to North African and Elizabethan influences, reinterpreted through a contemporary lens. This fusion of tradition and modernity extended to the show’s soundtrack, which layered electronic beats with Arabic vocals, creating an immersive sensory experience.
Alaïa’s commitment to timeless beauty was at the heart of this presentation. Models carried themselves with a composed elegance, evoking the stillness of painted portraits. The collection’s tactile qualities—smooth and furry textures, sculpted shapes, and fluid skirts—further reinforced the brand’s mastery of craftsmanship and materiality.
Mulier’s latest vision for Alaïa is both reverent and forward-thinking, honoring the house’s legacy while redefining its future. With his meticulous approach to form and texture, he continues to elevate Alaïa into a realm where fashion meets sculpture, tradition meets reinvention, and elegance knows no boundaries.
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