The latest collection from Peter Do, the second since taking over as creative director of Helmut Lang, focused on the theme of protection amongst today’s chaotic state of the world. The pieces, with some leaning towards a dystopian aesthetic, felt particularly relevant given the current climate. Do reimagined archival designs, including a white bubble-wrap shirt and pants ensemble, updating them with new fabrics for a cooler take on sheer dressing that still provided a sense of security.
The collection featured treated denim, woven leather, and scale-like textures, adding a touch of luxury to everyday items like jeans, leather pants, and shirt jackets. Details such as scarf panels on silk blouses, hoods designed not to disrupt hairstyles on bombers, and face-shielding collars on double-faced wool coats showcased thoughtful design elements. Tailoring played a significant role, with a futuristic militaristic feel evident in waist-shaped blazers and coats buttoned to the neck, along with long trouser skirts and cargo pants for both coverage and comfort.
Softness was also present, with standout pieces like a glossy clutch-front mustard yellow nylon parka paired with a sidewalk-skimming jersey skirt. The collection overall showed a more confident and focused approach, with Do simplifying the runway choreography and reducing prints, text, buckles, and straps to create a tough new uniform for challenging times.
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