In his Fall Winter 2023-24 Haute Couture collection, Alexandre Vauthier departed from his usual flamboyance, embracing sobriety and precision to showcase his mastery of cut and sharp silhouettes. Set to the melodies of Erik Satie and Leonard Cohen, the show aimed to ground his work in its essential foundations.
This shift towards sobriety was reflected in the choice of seasoned models, minimal makeup, and natural hair styling. The absence of stilettos and a neutral color palette allowed the craftsmanship and cut of the garments to shine. Vauthier’s exploration of couture techniques led to slender and elongated silhouettes, with draping, asymmetries, trains, capes, and sensuality added to dresses and pantsuits.
Showstoppers included a black stretchy leotard with a billowy cape adorned with intricate silver beadwork, as well as bold elements like bronze and gold lamé, rich brocade textures, and plissé ruffled rosettes emerging from fitted tops. Even in this pursuit of essentiality, Vauthier’s allure remained intact, defined by bold and confident design choices.
