Zuhair Murad’s Fall-Winter 2017-2018 collection at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week transported the audience to the captivating world of Andalusia. This opulent array of designs paid homage to the vibrant patterns of the Alcazabas, the intricate tessellations of azulejos mosaics, and the grand architectural heritage of Granada, Cordoba, and Sevilla. The collection featured a range of garments, from striking capes to mermaid-style dresses, all intricately adorned with motifs reminiscent of the region. Everything exuded sensuality, capturing the essence of the birthplace of Flamenco.
Hobeika introduced a palette dominated by pink, lilac, blue, and green, accentuated by a myriad of accessories like tulip belts, winged earrings, and crystallized flowers, seamlessly combining elements of nature and couture for an embodiment of elegance and the celebration of life. The ensembles showcased powerful red carmine dresses, conjuring the spirit of Carmen’s iconic song, where love is portrayed as a wild and untamable bird. Silk muslin dresses with tulle capes, as well as layered Georgette silk ensembles, all embraced a sensuous charm.
The collection featured exquisite diamond-shaped patterns reminiscent of Mudejar art’s intricate inlay work, along with marine blue floral embroideries on a backdrop of off-white silk tulle. This created an enchanting image of an Arabian princess emerging from a dream. The marine-themed mermaid dress, adorned with arabesque embroideries, featured a shimmering silk muslin train that was cleverly transformed into a skirt in another design, demonstrating the collection’s versatility.
The integration of Flamenco and Arabian influences was evident in dresses with leaves motifs, shaping the waist, bodice, and even faux-necklaces, creating an exotic touch of an era gone by. Bolero vests, frilled skirts, and transparent skirts introduced a Flamenco spirit to the contemporary designs, resulting in a fusion of sensuality and Parisian chic.
Furthermore, the shimmering laser-cut beads on the dresses in silver pink and silver brought to mind the opulent fountains in the inner courtyards of Al-Andalus palaces, offering a sense of much-needed freshness and sensuality. The collection culminated with a bridal look that encapsulated the essence of a time and place where Arabic art and European traditions converged, giving rise to a distinctive culture in Southern Europe. The final bridal ensemble, featuring flamenco-style floral headpieces, delicate arabesque motifs on the veil, and floral embellishments, provided a fitting conclusion to this captivating journey through history and artistry.
