The haute couture autumn-winter collection for 2023-2024 by Julien Fournié takes the stage at the Salle Gaveau during Paris Fashion Week Couture. Julien Fournié launches a strong response to prevailing styles and fashion design, urging a resistance against inauthentic trends through elegance and innovation.
As an advocate for feminine values – preferring diplomacy over conquest, humor over aggression, and seduction over submission – the French couturier reinforces the notion that women stand as the ultimate shield, safeguarding humanity against the surge of masculinity that threatens it with conflict and aggression, emphasizing the vital role they play in preserving harmony.
The French fashion designer accomplishes this by reimagining medals, trims, and other military embellishments as elements of festivity within his ensembles. The silk braids reminiscent of officer’s uniforms and the shoulder pads sport fresh hues, while tassels take the place of traditional medals. The stars that typically adorn generals’ caps find a new home on dresses that celebrate the true guardians of humanity.
In the fall-winter 2023-2024 haute couture collection, Julien Fournié takes a distinctive approach by initially delving into meticulously crafted adaptations of men’s attire. This includes intricately embroidered tuxedos, belts adorned with pockets, silk jersey separates, reworked military pants and shirts, and a reinterpretation of a coat inspired by the uniforms of World War I soldiers. Through the manipulation of military themes, Julien Fournié artfully highlights the core of femininity. Elaborate embroideries make a bold stride forward, elegantly enveloping exquisite fabrics.
An enchanting clash of sparkle unfolds as intricate silk and lurex weaves engage in a captivating duel with devouring embroideries. In alternate areas, the collar of “oversize” jackets, crafted from silk dupioni, velvet, or satin, dons a touch of “cannetille” – a metallic thread.
Amidst the array, generously proportioned coats come to the forefront, evoking resemblances to kimonos. These garments unveil their concealed luminance through “flash” liners, unveiling the inner radiance they encapsulate. Julien Fournié ventures into a realm of diverse inspiration, embracing sources that span geographical and historical spectrums. He playfully explores elements such as chain mail, 19th-century frog fastenings akin to uniforms, samurai aesthetics, attires reminiscent of 20th-century war soldiers, as well as the forms of men’s riding coats and crinolines.
Khaki, lagoon blue, pink gold, purple, and red form the seasonal color spectrum, accompanied by the indispensable presence of black. Certain hues receive the Julien Fournié touch through gradient variations, while others are imbued with an almost disco-esque allure through the glistening charm of lurex, intensified by the presence of glossy coordinated umbrellas.
Championing diversity, the fashion designer meticulously selects his models to embody his all-encompassing vision: a blend of mixed-race, Asian, and European origins. These Julien Fournié muses not only transcend geographical boundaries but also playfully challenge preconceived notions. However, where does this leave men in the equation? Enter Romain Brau, a French actor and singer sporting striking red hair, who offers a unique suggestion: donning a 19th-century crinoline beneath a sweeping black silk gown, complete with a daringly plunging neckline that accentuates his masculine chest.
The collective result is a spirited competition where each individual vies for supremacy in the realm of style, harmonizing the joy of presentation with the boldness of embracing one’s true self.
